Varenna

Since my first visit to Varenna was on the quick side, two days ago I went back on my own while Steve went for a long bike ride.

I think Varenna may be my favorite town on the Lake so far. Its neighbor Bellagio is far more touristy and crowded. Varenna is sleepier and, in my view, even prettier, with some stunning views of Lake Como from the shore.

I spent some time wandering the gardens of the beautiful Villa Montasero (photo above), and then I decided to treat myself to a fabulous lunch at the neighboring Hotel Villa Cipressi. The views from the outside terrace were stunning, and I found them hypnotic, and so relaxing. I had brought my book with me, as I always do when I am going to be eating alone, but I didn't even open it. All I did was stare at the view and breathe in the beauty and tranquility.

(Photo left: the view from my table) I also ate a darn tasty meal. It started with smoked trout on a bed of fennel and carrot, followed by a spaghetti with a pumpkin puree and porcini mushrooms. The pasta especially was delicious; I am a great lover of the pumpkin sauce, and this one was especially delicious because it didn't seem to be burdened by cream, but rather had been thinned out with stock and wine.

Speaking of wine, I had a glass of this local wine, "Tzapel" 2009 from Aldo Rainoldi. This is a local Valtellina area winery, and the wine is a blend of Chiavennasca (Nebbiolo) and Sauvignon Blanc.

It was a lovely wine, light and fresh, with a light tropical nose of kiwi and green apple and lemongrass with a hint of some underlying spice like cinnamon. It went beautifully with the fish and pasta, and with the sunny day and amazing view. The only Nebbiolo wines I've previously had have been reds, so it was interesting to try the white vinification.

For dessert, I had an amazing panna cotta with a burnt caramel sauce and toffee bits on top. I can often find panna cotta too gelatinous, but this one was the perfect combo of light and rich, with a wonderful vanilla flavor which want beautifully with the caramel and toffee.

When I showed Steve the picture he was very sad that I had eaten that dessert without him, but I said, well, you can either be a super-fit bike rider, or you can be a lazy panna cotta eating wine-drinker, you can't be both (at least not at the same time!!).